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Dhaulagiri, Saturday, 3rd of May 2008
dhaulagiri 2008

 

DHAULAGIRI SUMMIT FOR ARAGON

That’s it. All our dreams came true. The first of May, at 14:00 hours I stepped on the summit of this beautiful mountain of Nepal. Wind and cold were intense, but my feelings were red-hot. I remembered my friends, Garcés, Sagaste, Ricardo. I could not stop feeling that this summit was to them, to all those good climbers who passed away in this mountain. I could feel their presence in the middle of the storm. Up here, at 8.167 meters, I was not alone. I was with them, and all of a sudden, as we used to do, we all met, although this time the meeting was in this remote place. Wrapped up by them, I started the descent to camp 3, where I arrived at 6 p.m. A hard working day, full of emotions. Already very early morning the mountain showed us its hard face. At 3 a.m. we started the long way to the summit. Wind blew strongly, temperature was – 30º C and doubts were with us throughout the whole way. The way was getting more and more complicated. We had to cross all those terrible slopes of Dhaulagiri. There was no option for failures. One mistake and the 1000 meters fall was there. A lot of concentration, effort. At around midday we could see the last part to the summit. That rocky summit which marks the end of the mountain, was defiantly observing us. At around one o’clock Ivan, Gerlinde, Ferran, David and Fercho reached the summit. I could see them over that rocky point. Weather was changing, but my will was firm. I could also see Marta, behind me, but making a big effort to reach the summit.  Weather was changing and the summit started to get covered and wind was very strong. It did not matter, nothing could stop me. Finally, everything was under my feet. Alex Chicón arrived with me and we could hug each other and share this beautiful moment. My eighth 8.000er and the first time an Aragonese reached this damned summit. Few minutes in this strange place, and I run down to the safety of camp 3. I passed by Marta at 3 p.m. She still had around one hour to the summit. She was very enthusiastic. I reminded her that it was late, that her rhythm had been a bit slow, but her dream to become the first Aragonese female to climb an 8000 meter mountain was huge. I cheered her to do it, but told her that if she saw the weather changing, she would have to turn back. I waited for a while at 8.000 meters and I could watch how this brave Aragonese woman reached the summit. Weather kept being good and Marta got it. Once I was in camp 3, I waited for her return, melting snow and having contact with Pérez in the base camp. It was a very worried night and at around two o’clock in the morning Marta reached camp 3. Exhausted, but extremely happy. She made a big bet, and she won. The following day we started coming down, reaching the base camp in the evening. Pérez came to meet us. We hug each other and we could enjoy such an intimate and special moment. We are now safe, happy, with some small wounds in our fingers but we are ok. Unfortunately the mountain charged its price. It always happens and one life has been taken away for good. I never trusted this mountain. It is dangerous and tough, but for us it is already history. Now it is time to rest, to leave this place and to think of a near future. Satisfaction for the good job done by all the team. Our sincere thanks to all those who supported us and helped us to reach the highest point, the summit of Dhaulagiri.
Carlos Pauner


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dhaulagiri


Dhaulagiri is situated in the north-central part of Nepal. It is the highest peak out of the 5 ones which are part of this massif, also called Dhaulagiri.

It is the seventh highest mountain in the planet, with an altitude of 8.167 meters.

Its name comes from Sanskrit Dhavala giri, 'White Mountain'.

In 1960, after many attempts, and international group consisted of Swiss M. Eiselin, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert, M. Vaucher, JJ and H. Weber, the austrian K. Diemberger, German P. Diener and Polish G. Hajdukiewicz and A. Skoczylas, reached the summit on May 13th.

 

 

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